Where the Spirit of Bohemian Berlin Has (Just About) Survived

Finding the essence, the true spirit or soul of a place: this is perhaps the most difficult thing to attempt on one’s travels. It is certainly the most frequent source of frustrations. We travel to a place where we have never been but of which we have heard, seen and fantasized a lot about, and rather than seeing anything that we would recognize as the “true” so-and-so, we only

Where the Spirit of Bohemian Berlin Has (Just About) Survived

Potsdam Fast and Slow: A Daytrip Destination from Berlin

The city of Potsdam is the number one daytrip destination from Berlin.

And for good reasons, too: it is surrounded by parks and forests, contains several picturesque bodies of water and provides paths for hiking and biking.

Above all, however, it is full of history: old history – as the former residence of Prussia’s most famous monarch – and contemporary history – as the home of the

Potsdam Fast and Slow: A Daytrip Destination from Berlin

Lakeside Hiking Trails for the Easiest of Easy Hikes

Lakeside hiking trails are, in general, good fun.

Good fun: it is this lack of more profound ambitions that makes lakeside hiking trails popular but that also limits their appeal. If one were to classify hiking routes according to their level of complexity, trails around small inland lakes would wind up at the very bottom of such a list: the easy-listening choice of hiking, the Barry Manilow to the Tristan and

Lakeside Hiking Trails for the Easiest of Easy Hikes

Marl Masters Modern Sculpture in Public Spaces

This week, the latest edition of the Skulptur Projekte will be opening in the northwestern German city of Münster. This open-air art exhibition is staged once every ten years and scheduled to coincide with that year’s documenta, the world’s foremost showcase of modern art. The Skulptur Projekte is narrower in focus than the documenta (which is held every five years in Kassel, approx. 200 km to the east) but in its smaller niche – modern

Marl Masters Modern Sculpture in Public Spaces

Our Short Sweet Walk to Chase Away Festive Stupor

There is, as the Book of Ecclesiastes says, a time and a season for everything: a season for exhausting hikes through mountainous territory (spring, let’s say), a season for coastal walks with swimming wear in the backpack (that would be summer, of course), and a season for themed town walks in two halves with a boozy lunch in the middle (those lazy, hazy days of autumn).

But what about winter, specifically

Our Short Sweet Walk to Chase Away Festive Stupor

Where and How to See Modern Sculptures in Muenster

Earlier in the year, we took you on a “sculp-tour” through the city of Münster (in northwest Germany), which hosts an internationally famous sculpture exhibition every ten years and which – since 1977 – has become one of Europe’s hot spots for urban modern art. The city, one of Germany’s finest, is equally well-known for its historic town centre and for its large number of urban beauty spots. Having concentrated on the first for part

Where and How to See Modern Sculptures in Muenster

How to See the Historical Old Town of Leipzig

Leipzig, of course, is more than “Hypezig”, as the scene quarter of Plagwitz is sometimes known So in today’s post, I will first tell you what we did to explore this interesting and historical old town in the heart of Germany, and then what we should have done.

We started our walk to see the historical old town of Leipzig from its central station, straight into Nikolaistraße, the main shopping street that is

How to See the Historical Old Town of Leipzig

Here’s How We Experienced Plagwitz in Leipzig

There are not many things that East Germany (that most joyless country in the annals of the world) and Italy have in common, but here is one: a conservation policy that closely mirrors the principles of “triage”. In analogy to the requirements of battlefield medicine, both Italy and East Germany divided their cities or cultural sites into the lightly injured, the seriously ravaged that would benefit from further treatment and the

Here’s How We Experienced Plagwitz in Leipzig

To Passau for the Second Movement of the Blue Danube

In the initial post about our trip along the Danube, I said that the Rhine landscape featured a large number of castles While this is undeniably true, it may have been misconstrued to imply that the landscape of the Danube did not.

So let me clearly state once and for all that this would be a totally false impression. Of course the Donau has castles, too. And just to prove the point, today

To Passau for the Second Movement of the Blue Danube

Regensburg, Why Have You Got a Heart of Stone?

Considering we have sung the praises of Regensburg in our last post, it seems all the more unforgivable that we failed to mention the city’s key asset on the central European tourism market: the fact that its entire (and fairly substantial) Old Town has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You are forgiven to ask, how come, that a medium-sized city in provincial Germany of which until now you had heard little, was found

Regensburg, Why Have You Got a Heart of Stone?