Take This Neat Little Hiking Package to Cap Nice

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We continue with our tips on how to get most out of your short trip to Nice

In contrast to the mountainside, the Riviera’s other great area of wilderness, the Mediterranean Sea, does not require its prospective visitors to embark on a long and protracted journey: it is always there, at most a few hundred metres from where you are. Well, that is the theory.

In practice, however, what you find

Take This Neat Little Hiking Package to Cap Nice

Some Tips on How to Get the Most Out of Your Short Trip to Nice

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Holidays would be different if we had unlimited amounts of time for them, but we do not. So they are what they are, which largely means: always too short.

As a rule of thumb, the more affluent people are, the more often they will go on a vacation, but – since the time available for holidays has not increased – they will spend less and less time at any of their destinations. Time

Some Tips on How to Get the Most Out of Your Short Trip to Nice

In Nice? Take the Train des Pignes to Entrevaux!

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Two scenic train rides from Nice into its alpine back country are on the itinerary of most Riviera visits: the Train des Merveilles (to Tende near the Italian frontier) and the Train des Pignes (to Digne-les-Bains in the northwest). Ticking off the Train des Merveilles from our own travel schedule was one of the first things we did on the Riviera – we had not even moved for good in the area yet

In Nice? Take the Train des Pignes to Entrevaux!

Where is the Serre de La Madone Garden?

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Gardens are to nature what fictional stories are to real life. They are carefully plotted, laid out to amuse and to entertain, and they do not try to conceal that everything you see has been put there for a reason. Gardens are highly artificial, but holding that against them is like going to the theatre and complaining that everything was, well, a bit stagey.

This does not mean that all gardens

Where is the Serre de La Madone Garden?

Discover the Most Storied Backcountry Village of the French Riviera

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Last week, I told you about the bus company Zest and its daily tours from Menton into the arrière pays, the French Riviera’s mountainous back country. Of these altogether ten different day trips, most are going to places that also are, in principle, available on Zest’s ordinary lines.

The problem is that the schedules of these “ordinary lines” (that often run no more than twice day) are mainly arranged

Discover the Most Storied Backcountry Village of the French Riviera

Go Hiking on the French Riviera Back Country

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When you want to go hiking on the French Riviera, there are good reasons for preferring either the coast or the back country, the mountainous arrière pays

One possible reason for going one way or the other is undoubtedly the right psychological “match” between hiker and route.

The coast at its best is friendly and open, but can also be loud, brash and more than a little vulgar. The

Go Hiking on the French Riviera Back Country

How to Spend the Hours Before Your Flight from Nice

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Why would you want to go into a public park on the French Riviera when nature in its untamed variety – more coastal walks and mountain hikes than you could possibly pack into a long holiday – is only ever a bus ride away?

On most days, admittedly, any argument in favour of a trip to the public park will indeed seem a trifle weak, but there are also circumstances under which it

How to Spend the Hours Before Your Flight from Nice

Do You Agree that Grasse is for Inhaling?

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Grasse, as Joe Namath very nearly said, is not for visiting, it’s for smoking. And you’d be surprised how many locals share this opinion, at least the first half of it: that your time would be better spent going somewhere else (not to put too fine a point on it.)

Nice-Matin, our local rag, recently dedicated a photo spread to the refutation of this very idea that Grasse is ugly, that there is

Do You Agree that Grasse is for Inhaling?

Sniff Your Way to the Garden of Scents

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What Made Grasse Famous Has Made a Smell-O-Rama Convert Out Of Me Few people have ever regretted that Hollywood failed to further evolve its 1950s format of Smell-O-Rama which allowed the movie houses to pipe in scents for the purpose of highlighting the cinematic narrative.

Full disclosure: I have always been one of those Smell-O-Rama skeptics – until last weekend, that is, when we visited the garden of scents, the Musée Internationale de

Sniff Your Way to the Garden of Scents

So You Want Off the Beaten Path But Charming

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Villeneuve-Loubet is an attractive and charming little village, perhaps not the most spectacularly beautiful in the French Riviera region but one of the most alluring. This may have to do with the fact that it is located a little off the beaten track and has therefore been allowed to preserve its Provencal character more than most.

It is a place where the barber and the baker stop each other

So You Want Off the Beaten Path But Charming