Sunshine and Spectacle Guaranteed on the Promenade des Anglais

A multi-site exhibition in Nice celebrates the past and the present of France’s second most famous and most attractive boulevard

The past is a foreign country, the novel “The Go Between” famously begins, and although we all know that “they do things differently there”, we are often insufficiently aware of the size of the gap that divides us from our forefathers.

Modern life, for better of for worse,

Sunshine and Spectacle Guaranteed on the Promenade des Anglais

In the French Riviera, the Back Country Wins!

Biot is that rare thing of a Riviera hilltop town: as unassuming, authentic and unspoilt as you can expect any town in this part of the world to be The stretch between Antibes and Nice Airport is, without a doubt, the ugliest section of the Cote d’Azur: on the one side of the road and railway tracks, you have a straight and featureless coastline (largely lifeless, too, with only few scattered swimmers around, even in

In the French Riviera, the Back Country Wins!

See Why It Can Be Monumental at Mougins

One more reason to hike up to this picturesque hilltop town: a street sculpture exhibition

VENUS DANS LE VIDE by Sasha Sosno

Street sculpture shows are very much in fashion. Over the last 20 years or so, many towns have hit upon the idea of hosting a festival by inviting artists or museums to exhibit some of their works on public squares and thoroughfares.

Such festivals generally provide good copy for the

See Why It Can Be Monumental at Mougins

Do You Think Mougins is Worth the Climb?

Picasso spent the last 12 years of his life here, but there are many other reasons to visit this hilltop village north of Cannes If the French Riviera is not exclusively famous for being a playground of people with more money than sense – from 19th century Russian aristocrats via eccentric East Coast heiresses during the “Jazz Age” to the oligarchs of today – it owes this to the great modern artists who chose to

Do You Think Mougins is Worth the Climb?

How and Why it was St Jean Cap Ferrat Again

The Saint Hospice promontory – hermits, shepherds and gazillionaires – is always worth a return visit It was just a question of time before such a thing would happen, and then, last week, it finally did.

She said so: It was St Jean Cap Ferrat all over again

“We have been here before.” Mrs. Easy Hiker said. “There,” she pointed to a spot in the distance just before the hiking

How and Why it was St Jean Cap Ferrat Again

Want to See the Russian Churches on the Riviera?

Elsewhere in the world, the word may be that “the Russians are coming”; in the coastal region between Nice and Sanremo, they have arrived long ago and been part of the local communities for well over 150 years Once upon a time, before the advent of satellite TV dishes and the world-wide web, immigrants, even the very richest ones, felt the need to huddle together in the cold environment of an alien culture. What they

Want to See the Russian Churches on the Riviera?

It was Once a Wonderful Springtime for Napoleon

200 years after the event, we followed the Emperor and his army on the first stage of their walk back to Paris and to Waterloo On 1 March 1815, the recently deposed Emperor Napoleon landed with a small band of 1000 loyal soldiers in Golfe Juan near Cannes, arriving from his exile in Elba to reclaim the French throne. Exactly two hundred years later, the municipal administration of what is now a small but lively

It was Once a Wonderful Springtime for Napoleon

The Remains of the Romans in the Riviera

On the basis of the evidence, it feels safe to say that the Empire’s troops did not come here to enjoy the beautiful beaches The history of the Riviera, if we are honest, begins in the 17th century when its oldest towns were built, and it really picks up 200 years later with the invention of tourism.

Anything that happened before is irrelevant for the modern-day resort towns that are lining the coast.

The Remains of the Romans in the Riviera

The Nice of Henri Matisse You Want to See

The capital of the French Riviera was the great love in the life of one of the 20th century’s greatest artists The list of famous painters who have been claimed as the genius loci of one Riviera town or the other is long: Cagnes-sur-Mer has Renoir, St Paul de Vence has Chagall, Menton has Jean Cocteau, Vallauris and Antibes share Picasso (but there is a lot to share, Picasso being “vast and containing multitudes”). Even

The Nice of Henri Matisse You Want to See

How to See the Busy Hilltop Town of Vence

With its long history and a strong presence of the modern arts, Vence is the perfect destination for a walk through the Provencal countryside It would be silly to say that if you have seen one Riviera hilltop town, you have seen them all. No, worse than silly: unfair and, above all, ungrateful for the treasures they hold in store for their visitors. At the same time, however, it would be equally silly to deny

How to See the Busy Hilltop Town of Vence