Hiking in Matera: The Savage Land of the Murgia
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Hiking in Matera: The Savage Land of the Murgia

Despite the sassi, the rock churches and all the other fascinating things that you can see in Matera, the highlights of any walk around the town are the magnificent views across the Murgia landscape. But this landscape is not only there to be marveled at. After all, all those bright lines that are zigzagging up…

Matera-Morphosis: A Town’s Journey from Rags to Riches
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Matera-Morphosis: A Town’s Journey from Rags to Riches

Matera is the ugly caterpillar on the tree of international travel destinations. 70 years ago, the town was the epitome of the backward, benighted Italian South, so poor and neglected that it was officially designated a national disgrace – la vergogna nazionale – by the country’s first post-WWII government. Today, it is one of Europe’s…

Get Surprises from Santa Claus in Bari
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Get Surprises from Santa Claus in Bari

Bari, the largest city on the Adriatic coast, is not a mandatory stop on the Great Italian Tourist Trail. No Renaissance masterpieces are on public display, the town’s history does not feature names that you would recognize from old High School lessons, and you will not see reflections of magnificent medieval architecture in the sparkling…

Follow the Water for a Lesson in Sicilian History
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Follow the Water for a Lesson in Sicilian History

Water. If you want to know what shapes and sustains the Mediterranean way of life, just follow its flow. Drinking water is the magical essence of the Mediterranean alchemy. It turns scruffy woodlands into orchards and lush gardens, baking-hot courtyards into oases of coolness and calm, and parched savannahs into fertile fields that can sustain…