Several years ago, when we had already established our base on the Riviera but not yet turned it into a proper home, we decided one day to walk from Eze-sur-mer all the way up to Eze village.
This turned out to be a fairly tough hike, particularly for that half of the easy hiking team (aka “my other half”) who was not wearing the right shoes because her spouse had led her to believe that she would be going for little more than a seaside stroll. (Sometimes I feel that Mrs. Easy Hiker has never quite forgiven me for that.)
In the end, however, we were rather tired after the climb and were consequently rather surprised to find out later that the walk up to Eze Village only ranks as the first part of a longer full-day tour in the Cote d’Azur Hiking Guide.
I was always intrigued by this, but it was only last week when I mustered the courage to ask Mrs. Easy Hiker to return to Eze for Part Two of the hike.
So finally, we could set off to deal with unfinished business, with the aim of conquering the peak of Mont Bastide, …
… which – at 570 metres – is on the high side by local standards, although we already made up more than half of that by taking the bus up to Eze Village. (Line no. 112 passes by on the way between Nice and Monaco.
When you come from Nice, you can also take no. 83. Both lines offer a fairly infrequent service, however, so you should consult the schedules on the Ligne d’Azur website beforehand.)
This may have left us with only about 300 metres to conquer from where we stood, but still, seen from below, Mont Bastide presented a quite daunting prospect.
Before you start you climb, you should at any rate have a walk through the small town of Eze if you have never been.
And if you have been: go again. Eze is one of the prettiest and best-kept hilltop villages in southern France and always worth a visit.
Eze Hiker conquering the peak in the sequel
Walk across the bridge that spans the Ibac valley (Vallon de l’Ibac) and turn right shortly before the small tunnel. Leave Eze in the direction of Mont Bastide on the Moyenne Corniche, the middle one of the three coastal highways (and the one which is famous for providing the best balcony views).
While the trail starts rather gently, it soon leads you up in a steep ascent …
… ensuring that, after the first 30 minutes of hiking, the worst will already be behind you.
From there on, you approach the summit in a broad sweep rather than a direct line, which gives you time to enjoy the views.
The plateau you will reach after an hour or so provides you with your best opportunity of enjoying your packed lunch. You will not have many meals this year with a better view.
That’s Cap Ferrat (and the city of Nice behind it) underneath you in the west …
… and towards the east, you will see the Tete de Chien, the rock that overlooks Monaco. (Been there, done that!)
You may be forgiven for thinking that you have already achieved conquering the peak of Mont Bastide, but actually you have not: the proper peak is located a little further up the trail. Make sure you don’t miss it!
From the peak, naturally, all ways are leading down. On your descent, you will have only one slightly tricky spot to manoeuvre: do not turn left in the direction of the paragliding runway strip (called the “Libre Vol” on the signpost) instead continue straight down crossing over a wooden barrier along the highway between Nice and La Turbie.
Just before reaching the road, turn sharply to the left into the path that runs past the ruined house on the right.
From here, it is a long and slow descent all the way to Eze-sur-mer, …
… across a gently sloping, not very difficult but very stony trail.
Don’t even think of attempting this in a pair of soft-sole sneakers! (Correct attire is even more important here than it is for Part One of the Eze hiking trail.)
Always look for and follow the yellow markers when the route becomes a bit more complicated parricularly in the outskirts of Eze-sur-mer. But do not despair when you lose your way: just continue roughly in a downhill direction, and eventually, you will reach the low coastal road, the Basse Corniche.
From there, you can take bus no. 100 to Nice (on your side of the road) or to Monaco/Menton (on the other side). There is Eze train station, too, and if you have stuck with the yellow markers, you will find it right opposite you on the far side of the road.
