The Importance of Being Hemingway

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Being Hemingway

This is a postscript to last week’s Hemingway walk in Paris. It also doubles up, incidentally, as our St Valentine’s Day post. After all, it does involve a story of two people who disappeared in the toilet for some private business. Even though they were both men. And even though only one of them actually let his trousers down.

Intrigued? I thought so. Okay then, here goes.

Two Men in Le Water

"being hemingway with fitzgerald"

Towards the end of his book A Moveable Feast, Ernest Hemingway tells the story of how he was, one day, having lunch at the restaurant Michaud with Scott Fitzgerald. This was a time when both men were already established writers, so this was probably around 1927 or 1928. Fitzgerald had invited Hemingway because he wanted to ask him something important – but then preferred to make small talk for most of their meeting, coming to the point only after dessert had already been served.

He had never slept with anyone but Zelda, Fitzgerald confessed, and Zelda frequently complained to him that he was insufficiently equipped to make any woman happy. Now he needed somebody more worldly than himself to make a neutral assessment – and had decided that, being Hemingway, he was the man. (If he counted on Hemingway never to tell anybody, and this must have been at least a tacit agreement, Fitzgerald displayed the same sort of psychological insight in choosing a “best friend” as he had demonstrated in picking his wife.)

Hemingway agrees immediately, suggests “le water” as the place for the inspection – and tells Fitzgerald on coming back to their table that he is “perfectly fine”. (Fitzgerald, unsurprisingly perhaps, remains unconvinced.)

The place where this episode takes place, the restaurant Michaud, which according to Hemingway is located “on the corner of Rue des Saint Pères and Rue Jacob”, no longer exists. (In another part of his book, Hemingway describes it as an “exciting and expensive” place to eat and speaks about an occasion when he observed James Joyce and his family having their dinner there, “all of them speaking Italian”.)

"Inside Le Compotoir des Saints Peres"

In its place, there is now a modern and not particularly charming bar-bistro called “Le Comptoir des Saint Pères”. Even if the place as a whole fails to suggest the atmosphere of a 1920s literary café, it is nevertheless true that the ceiling and the bar itself, the comptoir, have been preserved from the period, perhaps giving you a rough idea of what the place once may have looked and felt like.

But we don’t care about the comptoir, of course. What we want to know is: what about “le water”? Is this really “le place”?

"Entrance to the toilet of Le Compotoir des Saints Peres"

I am sorry but I have to tell you that that my research on this was inconclusive. I am only certain about one thing: Hemingway and Fitzgerald should have conducted their business in the men’s room of the Closerie des Lilas, Hemingway’s favourite Parisian restaurant – that surely was an environment splendid enough for a truly special moment.

You can walk to the Comptoir des Saint Pères from Boulevard Montparnasse – if you were looking for an alternative way of ending the Hemingway walk, for example.But it is a bit of a schlep and will take you roughly 30 minutes.

Easier to go there if you happen to be in the area of St Germain church. From there, it’s only a couple of blocks: take Rue Bonaparte towards the river and turn left on Rue Jacob.

Don’t miss vignettes like this related to our hikes and walks. Follow us on Facebook or register to receive our free updates direct in your email box.

15 comments to The Importance of Being Hemingway

  • Joseph

    Looks like a good story, thank you Michael

  • lecomte

    je suis désolé mais le comptoir des saints père est resté en partis dans son jus et reste un endroit très agréable et non moderne cette établissement a appartenu a mon arrière grand père qui se prénommais Chéramy, juste après Michaud dans les années 1930.
    MON arrière grand père a d’ailleurs écrit un livre de poème ou il est en couverture avec Boris Vian. le livre s’intitulais “A tout vent”.

  • Jeremy Radcliffe

    I’ll pop in on my next Paris trip!

  • Next time in Paris, I would love to take a Hemingway walk. Always one of my favorite writers,it would be so cool to follow in his footsteps. I visited Hemingway’s birthplace in Oak Park, Illinois a while back. It was kind of strange to picture him as a little child in the house where he grew up.

  • Okay, I’m not really sure where to begin. I’m still back at the place where SF freely confesses to another man that his wife thinks he’s inadequate. That suggests to me, that they shared a deep friendship and confidence that EH wouldn’t tell anyone or worse, take advantage of the situation and help SF’s wife out.

    I mean, he could have asked his doctor, who should/would have been the most appropriate person to put his mind at rest. Wonder who came out of le Water first? Hahaha!

    Glad to see at least part of the restaurant has been preserved. Great post, Michael.
    Belated Happy Valentine’s Day to you and Marlys!

  • Same wishes too to two lovebirds, Mr and Mrs Smith (Jackie and Joel.)

  • Love it! I really should make time to read A Moveable Feast especially after this awesome story. Happy Valentine’s Day to you hiking lovebirds!

  • I know I’ve read The Moveable Feast at least twice but now you’ve made me decide to go for three. And I will be buying The Paris Wife to read after. . .what a great post Michael! Happy Valentine’s Day to you and Marlys!

  • Jeremy Branham

    I loved this story! Again after reading The Paris Wife just made Hemingway and Fitzgerald so much more intriguing and interesting characters. Then add this story to it – awesome and funny! Ah to live in Paris during those days.

  • Brilliant! Only you Michael could wring some romance out of this sorry scenario. I just hope they shook on it afterwards!

  • Althea Young

    Hemingway and Fitzgerald was genius!I love the story of the two men and look how years go and the place change but the memories are still there.

  • LOL. So many things to cringe at in this story that it’s easier to just laugh. I can only imagine the whispers that must been circulating when the two went in and came out together. Great story!

  • OMG! I love this story. So funny! I’m following now. ;)

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