Dare to Take One Lap Around Monte Carlo?

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Urban Walks

Follow the Tyremarks of F1 Legends on the World’s Most Famous Racing Track

First a confession: I am not a great fan, either of the F1 Grand Prix circus or of the Principauté itself. To me, Monaco has always felt like a council estate that won the lottery.

Nevertheless, I enjoyed this walk around the F1 circuit tremendously, recognizing some of the sites from half-remembered TV transmissions (I last watched a full race when I was a kid), and I will certainly want to watch the Monaco Grand Prix on TV again the next time it comes around.

Fun for the day plus something to look forward to – what more can you expect from a single afternoon out?

The best way to start your one lap around Monte Carlo is right down the middle of Boulevard Albert 1er because this is where the chequered flags go up and down, right outside the offices of the Automobil Club de Monaco.

"One lap around Monte Carlo starting from the Automobil Club de Monaco"

When you walk out of Monaco train station, you will find the spot a couple of hundred meters on your right.

Have you read: Breathless in Monaco

Now walk back in the direction of the station for the first turn of the race, the co-called St Devote (named after the chapel in front of the station), notorious for the large number of accidents it has caused through the decades, even though most of these were of the harmless variety and mainly pile-ups immediately after the start.

Walk right up the Avenue d’Ostend – this stretch is called Beau Rivage – …

"Doing one lap around Monte Carlo along the Avenue d'Ostend"

… and follow the street through its long left-hand curve before taking a sharp right-hand turn into the Avenue des Beaux Arts past Casino Square.

"One lap around Monte Carlo passing by the Casino Square"

Continue straight into Avenue des Spélugues and turn right at the end, walking down to the slowest section of the course, actually the slowest section of any course in present-day F1 racing.

"One lap around Monte Carlo and not miss the Fairmont Hairpin"

This is the famous Fairmont Hairpin (formerly the Loews Hairpin and before that the Station Hairpin).

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There were days when cars attempted to overtake here, probably because the other cars seemed so temptingly slow. Although the sheer dimensions of modern racing cars no longer allow such manoeuvres, accidents still occur frequently here – like on the first lap of the 2000 race when Pedro de la Rosa’s Arrows spun around and  blocked the track for the following traffic. Only nine cars finished the race on that day, a record low.

After a double right-hander, the so-called Portier, the cars now enter the famous tunnel, the only one in F1 (apart from a much shorter one in Abu Dhabi’s Yas Marina Circuit).

"One lap around Monte Carlo leads you to the tunnel after the Portier"

This tunnel is known to cause a range of problems to the drivers: firstly, the cars become difficult to handle because they lose roughly a quarter of their downforce  in the tricky, semi-subterranean aerodynamic conditions.

Secondly, of course, there is the weather: on sunny days, the drivers’ eyes take nearly as long to adjust to the changing light as it takes their cars to come out on the other end.

And on rainy days, the tunnel stays dry while everything outside is wet.

The opposite was true, however, in 1981 when the tunnel was the only wet part of the circuit – water that had been used to fight a kitchen fire in the hotel above seeped through and flooded the track. The good thing was that all of this happened before the start, and the water was removed before it could cause any risk to the drivers.

Out of the tunnel, with the Princess Grace Theatre high up on your right hand side …

"One lap around Monte Carlo lets you go by the Princess Grace Theatre"

… you are approaching the location of the Nouvelle Chicane, added to the track in the redesigns of 1973 and 1976, the only place where it still appears possible to overtake.

Consequently, this has been the site of several large accidents, including that of Karl Wendlinger in 1994, Jenson Button in 2003 and Sergio Perez in 2011.

On the last section of the straight that follows the tunnel, the most recent of Monaco’s (altogether 4) fatal accident occurred: this was in 1967 when Lorenzo Bandini crashed his Ferrari upside down into the straw bales, immediately bursting into flames while fire marshals stood helplessly by. When they eventually managed to drag Bandini’s burning body away from the wreckage, it was already too late, and he died a day after in hospital.

Poignantly, one year before that, Bandini – in his capacity as the F1 racing adviser to the movie Grand Prix – had suggested to director John Frankenheimer to use this exact spot as the location for the movie’s great showpiece accident.

Immediately behind the accident spot, there is the Tabac corner (named after the tobacconist who once operated on the other side of the street), a tight left-hander for which the drivers only slow down to about 200km/h (120 mph) …

"one lap around Monaco passing the Tabac Corner of the Monaco F1 tracks"

… before accelerating back up to 225 km/h for Piscine, the left-right combination of turns around Monaco’s public swimming pool.

This is where Alberto Ascari – still the only Italian ever to win the F1 crown in a Ferrari – drove his car into the sea in 1955, miraculously escaping with only a broken nose after having been rescued by the crew of Aristoteles Onassis’s private yacht. (Only four days later, Ascari died  following an accident at a sports car race in Monza.)

"one lap around Monte Carlo by the sea in front of the Piscine"

Almost immediately behind Piscine, you will arrive at the tight right-hander called Rascasse.

If you want to follow F1 action at close range, this is where you should stand during the Grand Prix: nowhere in F1 racing are spectators allowed to come this close to the track.

In the 2006 qualifying, they would have been able to witness a rather curious spectacle when Michael Schumacher appeared to deliberately stall his car to slow down two other drivers behind him (Fernando Alonso and Mark Webber) who were threatening to improve his qualification time and sending him back on the starting grid. (This is also where the pit lane starts on race days, above the restaurants on your right hand side.)

"one lap around Monte Carlo by the pit lanes"

Now into the Antony Noghes right-hander, leaving the statue of 5-time world champion Juan Manuel Fangio on your right hand side …

"one lap around Monte Carlo passing by the statue of Juan Manuel Fangio"

… down the stretch where in 1970 Jack Brabham, seemingly destined for victory in the last curve of the last lap, crashed his car into the wall, handing the win to Jochen Rindt. (Rindt suffered a fatal accident later that year in Monza and became the first driver ever to win the F1 championship posthumously.)

And that’s it: after a short sprint… you have arrived at the finish line.

In the unlikely event that nobody expects you there with a bottle of champagne, drinks are served one level below in a row of outdoor bars that are surprisingly inexpensive, considering their location and the views they provide across the most glamorous harbour in the world.

"end one lap around Monte Carlo in front of its glamorous harbour"

Just one final word of advice: please bear in mind that they need roughly eight weeks to install and another four weeks to dismantle all the temporary barriers, fences and grandstands that are required for the race. During this period – from mid-April through to mid-June – it is much more difficult to access the track and its sites.

More themed walks coming. Don’t miss them by subscribing to our free updates via email or following us on Facebook.

24 comments to Dare to Take One Lap Around Monte Carlo?

  • Hi Glen, it would take you in all roughly two hours, with enough time to take pictures!

  • Glen

    How long does it take to walk please

  • Enjoy your walk, Steve!

  • Jerry

    I very pleased I came across your guide to walking the track as Kathie and I will visit Monaco in late August with that precise goal in mind, having watched the GP many times in the past. This will complement our walk around Spa 2 years ago following that event. Thanks!

  • Glad we helped! Hope you had a good time, Steve.

  • Steve

    Many thanks , your guide came in very useful

  • Glad you managed to make use of your extra hour according to your liking, Stephen!

  • Stephen

    Thanks for the great information. Being a Formula 1 fan Monaco is like the holy land. I am on a coach tour and did a walk of the track in the hour which was allotted to have a look at the casino. One year I hope to get back to watch the race.

  • Have a great break in the French Riviera with the wife, Graham! And thanks for dropping by.

  • Graham Boucher

    My wife Diane and I will be there in October. Thanks for your info michael. Graham

  • Enjoy the walk, Dave.

  • Dave

    WIll be back in Monaco in September and shall be doing this walk, thank you

  • An unforgettable incident indeed. Hope you can visit again soon.

  • On our last visit to Monaco we were taking our usual ‘on foot’ tour of the city when Joel tripped on some construction materials and fell, his bloodied head looking far worse than it was. We were suddenly surrounded by people who came running to our assistance: a woman offered tissues, a man ran from across the street (and called an ambulance – which did respond and tied up traffic on the one way street, much to Joel’s mortification) But the first ambulance called in a second ambulance to ‘transport to the hospital’ while all the time Joel kept saying, “I am fine!” It became quite the scene. He finally convinced everyone that he was, in fact, fine and we didn’t require a ride to the hospital. To this day we have a warm spot for Monaco for that reason; sadly, I don’t think the same rush to help would have happened in an American big city.

  • It’s a good excuse to walk all over Monaco and not just around the Casino, for sure.

  • Ooh, good idea this. Never thought to walk along the race circuit. I’m not a huge fan of Monaco either, although it’s interesting to wander around and people-watch. And I do like the Musée océanographique.

  • No chance of crashing and no need for speed either, Nina.

  • Seems you are an F1 fan, Marcia.

  • So glad no one crashed into any walls on this lovely lap around Monte Carlo. Now it’s time for some of that champagne!

  • The next best thing to being there, Michael. I recognize some of these photos from previous races.
    I bet those drinks escalate in price during the Grand Prix!

  • Glad you enjoyed the walk, Mary.

  • You should find out more about Monaco first hand, Ariel.

  • What a beautiful walk! I’ve always found Monaco fascinating and these sights are a delight to admire and walk past even if they are associated with racing. I’m not a big fan either. I can’t imagine how crowded this place gets during the events.

  • I haven’t been to Monaco (maybe someday) but thanks to you Michael, I know more about it.

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