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Despite the sassi, the rock churches and all the other fascinating things that you can see in Matera, the highlights of any walk around the town are the magnificent views across the Murgia landscape.

"Hiking in Matera"

But this landscape is not only there to be marveled at. After all, all those bright lines that are zigzagging up and down the mountainous slope …

"Hiking in Matera"

… represent footpaths, inviting you to explore the Murgia on your own.

It is up to you how far you want to go – there are routes that take you a long way from Matera into the heart of this savage and inhospitable land – but you will need no more than half a day to complete a comprehensive tasting menu of the Murgia that takes in scenic views of the Gravina torrente

"Hiking in Matera"

… prehistoric caves, …

"Hiking in Matera"

… a remote rock chapel that was carved into the mountainside hundreds of years ago …

"Hiking in Matera"

… and close encounters with inhabitants of the land.

"Hiking in Matera"

And the biggest surprise of all: the hike is far less strenuous than you might think. All you need is a little courage – and off we go!

Hiking in Matera

All ways in Italy may be leading to Rome, but there is only one route into the Murgia. To access the hiking path down into the Gravina canyon, you must take the stairway near the intersection of Via Madonna delle Virtù (the road on top of the old city wall) and Via Ospedale Vecchio.

"Hiking in Matera"

The first section of the trail takes you down the slope, all the way to the wooden suspension bridge (the Ponte Tibetano, as the Italians say) across the Gravina torrente.

"Hiking in Matera"

This is, inevitably, followed by a climb. We are now at the deepest point of a canyon, after all, from where the only way is up.

The trail, meanwhile – as pretty much everything in southern Italy – is not in a hurry (chi va piano va sano, as the local proverb has it: take it easy and live long), taking its time to wind slowly up the hill …

"Hiking in Matera"

… and encouraging you to enjoy the scenic views.

"Hiking in Matera"

Just before reaching the high plateau on top of the hill, you will see a row of caves that is probably of prehistoric origin.

These caves, however, were never intended for human habitation, serving as storage spaces and as shelters for domestic animals.

"Hiking in Matera"

A little further up the trail, you will find the chapel of Saint Agnes.

Just like the rock churches in Matera, this chapel has been carved into the soft stone of the mountainside, but it is much simpler in structure and far less sumptuously decorated.

Like many similar chapels across the Murgia, this sacred space was intended for shepherds and other agricultural workers, inviting them for a quick prayer in the middle of their daily work.

"Hiking in Matera"

You are now only a few steps away from the Belvedere viewing point, which is also accessible by car from the main road that passes Matera.

You will meet people here who have come up the easy way …

 … as well as residents of the Murgia for whom this barren landscape is their home.

With great views across Matera …

… this is the perfect place for a scenic picnic.

You must, of course, bring everything from town that you intend to consume. Thankfully, not everything in Matera is as archaic as some of the scenery, and there are plenty of modern food outlets around Piazza Veneto.

It may be a good idea, however, to compose your menu to suit the austerity of your surroundings, limiting your provisions to simple local specialties such as pane di Matera (the native sourdough bread), olives and pecorino misto cheese, made from sheep’s milk.

If you do go hiking in Matera, we suggest to go easy on the region’s other famous agricultural product, the deep and dark red wines of neighbouring Puglia. You still have a long walk back ahead of you, after all.

And bear in mind that uncertain gaits and wooden suspension bridges do not make a happy mix.

For a most satisfying stay in Basilicata, get hiking in Matera into the savage land of the Murgia.

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