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Once upon a time, Genoa was a global power. The city republic was one of the most influential and dominant players around the Mediterranean Sea and across Europe, with far-ranging interests in both the Old World and the New, in the Orient as well as in America.

As a consequence, the Genoese became rich and proud, but – unfortunately – also more than just a little paranoid. By the middle of the 16th century, Genoa had bullied all neighbours into submission, on the strength of her unrivalled naval power.

But what about the maritime republic’s northern land borders? What was there to prevent some Hannibal from forcing his way in via the Alpine route, thrusting into the soft underbelly of Genoa’s defences?

The Genoese thought about this long and hard and finally came up with what they thought was the perfect solution: build that wall and fortresses!

But not just any wall: the longest wall in Europe, comprising two rings of fortifications (one inner and one outer) with a total length of nearly 20 km.

"why Genoa said Build that Wall"

At the time, Venice and Genoa were the Mediterranean’s superpowers: what Soviet Russia and USA would become a few hundred years later.

Venice, in many ways, resembled the US: a great military power but one with a considerable hinterland in the fine arts (Titian and Bellini), music (Vivaldi), architecture (Palladio) and many things besides, eventually bequeathing to the world a culture of decadent frivolity that is still celebrated (Giacomo Casanova and the Carnival are the city’s two most famous creations).

Genoa was not at all like this. In fact, there was – apart from seafaring – only one thing in which Genoa genuinely excelled: building fortresses.

In this, however, they were not merely good. Build that wall, they did. And they were excellent. Genovese fortresses were virtually indestructible – so much so that many are still standing after hundreds of years.

The landscapes of western Italy are dotted with them, nowhere more so than in the hills north of Genoa, in the area which is now called the Parco delle Mura …

"hiking trails around Genoa"

… where the fortresses provide the backdrop for some of the most scenic walks in the area.

There are several routes for exploring the Parco. (For further details, see this guide.)

The most popular route starts in Righi, the final stop of the Zecca-Righi funicular railway which starts in downtown Genoa near the entrance to the Garibaldi tunnel (a five-minute walk from the Piazza Principe railway station).

Turn left out of Righi station (into Via Mura delle Chiappe), past the Astronomical Observatory …

"finding out why Genoa said build that wall"

… and on the junction with Via Giovanni Costanzi, turn right (upwards) into Via Peralto.

Soon you will cross the dried-out moat of the ancient Forte Castellaccio (parts of which date from the 1300s).

Over the centuries, this fortress has been overgrown by dense Mediterranean flora and now lies hidden in the forest like an enchanted fairy-tale castle.

"Fortresses built when Genoa said build that wall"

But if you walk up a few steps on the footpath that will gently lead up the hill on your right, the structure becomes a little clearer, and you can still make out some of the castle’s features such as the Specola Tower where executions were carried out until the 19th century.

"gated fortress in Genoa"

Continue on the asphalt road past the Ostaia du Richetto restaurant …

"towards Fortress Sperone"

… and the second fortress on the itinerary, the Forte Sperone.

You have enough time to make an excursion to either (without such excursions, the walk will take you between 2 and 3 hours), depending on how tight your schedule is (and how hungry you are).

Alternatively, you can stray from the asphalt road to explore the ancient grounds of the fortresses behind this gate on your right hand side …

… or take one of the Parco’s marked walking trails on your left.

The park is an important nature reserve, providing breeding grounds for many protected animal species including kestrels, hawks and rare lizards.

"build that wall"

Make sure, however, that you will not miss the Begato, the best preserved of the three fortresses along the route and the highlight of the walk.

"Begato Fortress in Genoa"

The Begato fortress was one of the last additions to the two rings of fortresses that protected Genoa. It was completed in the 1800s and still in military use during both world wars.

You cannot enter the building itself, but there is a visitors’ centre with much interesting information.

From the ancient ramparts of the Begato, you also get fantastic views across the countryside. Count how many of the original fortification system’s 20 fortresses you can spot from here!

"build that wall"

From the fortress, continue along Via Forte di Begato in the direction of another funicular railway which can take you back down to Genoa.

We, however, having reached the railway’s final stop at Granarolo, had enjoyed this part of the walk so much, walking down the slope into Genoa like a pair of conquerors who had managed to trick the Republic’s defences …

"build that wall"

… that we decided to skip the train ride and to complete our descent into Genoa on foot.

If you look to your left, you can retrace the ridge on which you have just walked and clearly make out the Righi station’s viewing platform as well as all three fortresses.

"build that wall"

The suburb of Granorolo itself is surprisingly charming …

… and you can make many interesting discoveries further down as well.

Ship ahoy!

In many ways, this descent into Genoa was the most delightful part of the walk – and certainly an unexpected bonus to an interesting excursion into the city’s rich history!

Now you know why Genoa said then “Build that Wall!” and can even see vestiges of it today!

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