Here is how to explore Naples: if you only have two hours – time to kill between two trains, let’s say – I would suggest you walk up and down Via Tribunale, the main street of the city since Roman times. If you have one full day, you may want to extend your focus to…
There are several ways of discovering a city. For Naples, we suggest to discover the city through its art. Don’t worry: we are not proposing to explore the city by walking from one Caravaggio to the next. We invite you instead to follow us on a stroll through Napoli’s unique open air art museum, which…
If it is true that, as they say, all art aspires to the condition of music, Italian gardens aspire to the status of opera – with their love for grandeur, spectacle and full-throttled drama. This aspiration, however, does not burn with the same passion in all of Italy’s gardens. When, after the Renaissance, Italy fell…
For almost a thousand years, Saint Malo has been the best defended town not only in Brittany but in the whole of France: the only one that has been continuously surrounded by a fully functioning defensive wall. There has, after all, always been a lot for Saint Malo to defend itself against: the extent of…
1. Bring a rain coat – and a sweater If you are planning a trip to Lisbon, here are a few notes on travelling to Portugal that you may find useful. The weather in Southern Europe is not always what people from the North expect. As a rule of thumb: winters are wetter than you…
The small town of Sintra north of Lisbon is the home of two royal palaces. The contrast between those two buildings could hardly be bigger. The National Palace near the town centre was built 1000 years ago for the Moorish rulers of the Taifa Kingdom of Lisbon (after the Cordoba Caliphate had broken up into…
Uptown and downtown Lisbon are two different worlds, and your strategy of experiencing the two unequal halves of the Portuguese capital should reflect this. For your uptown walk on the slopes of the city we suggested last week, you should pick a starting point and an end point on opposite ends of the old town…
We began our brief series of Roman walks where the city’s history began: on its legendary “seven hills”. Today, we will finish there as well, returning to the starting point of our journey but focusing on what has always been the odd one out of Rome’s seven hills The Aventino on the Eternal City’s southern…
Here is a quiz question for you. What is the only European country that has never possessed any kind of a railway network? Hands up everybody who said “the Vatican”. Wrong! (The correct answer is Andorra.) Don’t feel downhearted if you could not get it right, as the New York Times comforts those of its…
Our latest trip to Rome was the 4th time we visited the city. We went first in the mid-1980s when the world was a different place: the Iron Age of the modern world. Many things have changed since then, but the Eternal City is not one of them. Which, after all, is why it bears…