A Cemetery as One of the Wonders of the World?
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A Cemetery as One of the Wonders of the World?

There are three good reasons to visit the Cimitero Monumentale di Staglieno in Genoa, one of Italy’s (and Europe’s) most famous and important “cities of the dead”. (Hemingway called the Staglieno “one of the wonders of the world”, and writers as different as Friedrich Nietzsche and Mark Twain were among its admirers.) First, architectural history. Archaeologists…

The Easiest of Easy Hikes in the Back Country of the Italian Riviera
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The Easiest of Easy Hikes in the Back Country of the Italian Riviera

If you are a frequent guest of this blog, you may remember our “two towns for one day’s walk” series of short and easy hikes which connect two villages along the Riviera coast (like Ventimiglia to Bordighera or Bordighera to San Remo or from Alassio to Laigueglia). In the mountainous back country, meanwhile, such a hike is…

Walking the Walk Along the Lucca Wall
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Walking the Walk Along the Lucca Wall

In Tuscany, landscape and urbanity are so closely interwoven that they create one large tapestry of culture which is governed by consistent aesthetic, economic and historical principles. While the Renaissance town palazzi reflect the pride and the wealth of the landowning families (it is said that Florentine rulers never ate or served anything in their…

Where the Spirit of Bohemian Berlin Has (Just About) Survived
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Where the Spirit of Bohemian Berlin Has (Just About) Survived

Finding the essence, the true spirit or soul of a place: this is perhaps the most difficult thing to attempt on one’s travels. It is certainly the most frequent source of frustrations. We travel to a place where we have never been but of which we have heard, seen and fantasized a lot about, and…

Potsdam Fast and Slow: A Daytrip Destination from Berlin
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Potsdam Fast and Slow: A Daytrip Destination from Berlin

The city of Potsdam is the number one daytrip destination from Berlin. And for good reasons, too: it is surrounded by parks and forests, contains several picturesque bodies of water and provides paths for hiking and biking. Above all, however, it is full of history: old history – as the former residence of Prussia’s most…

Easy Hiking Experience and More in Cinque Terre
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Easy Hiking Experience and More in Cinque Terre

One of the best, perhaps the single best feature of the Cinque Terre’s signature trail – the Blue Path – is its variety of views: you see the villages from different angles, sometimes in isolation and sometimes several at a time, sometimes from the front and sometimes from behind, sometimes from far away and sometimes…

Easy Hiking Experience in Cinque Terre – How to Get the Most Out of Your Trip
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Easy Hiking Experience in Cinque Terre – How to Get the Most Out of Your Trip

Italy’s Cinque Terre National Park is home to the Mediterranean’s most famous network of hiking paths. So famous in fact that nearly all our acquaintances have, over the years, reacted with stunned disbelief when we told them that we – despite living so close to the Cinque Terre’s home region of Liguria – had never…

Lakeside Hiking Trails for the Easiest of Easy Hikes
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Lakeside Hiking Trails for the Easiest of Easy Hikes

Lakeside hiking trails are, in general, good fun. Good fun: it is this lack of more profound ambitions that makes lakeside hiking trails popular but that also limits their appeal. If one were to classify hiking routes according to their level of complexity, trails around small inland lakes would wind up at the very bottom…

Marl Masters Modern Sculpture in Public Spaces
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Marl Masters Modern Sculpture in Public Spaces

This week, the latest edition of the Skulptur Projekte will be opening in the northwestern German city of Münster. This open-air art exhibition is staged once every ten years and scheduled to coincide with that year’s documenta, the world’s foremost showcase of modern art. The Skulptur Projekte is narrower in focus than the documenta (which…

What Do You Know About the Palm Trees of Bordighera?
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What Do You Know About the Palm Trees of Bordighera?

The Beodo palm grove is one of the most stunning sights in the whole of Northern Italy. If you have ever taken the bus from Ventimiglia in the direction of Sanremo and Genoa, you will probably have seen it and may have wondered what transported this piece of tropical landscape to the northern Italian coast….