Few things in unfamiliar cities are as irresistibly enticing as hilltop castles. I don’t know about you, but whenever I spot one such castle perching over a city that we are visiting for the first time, I feel something very powerful is pulling me up – and cannot rest until I have looked down on the city from the castle’s lofty heights.
So this is why, on our last afternoon in Cosenza, I dragged Mrs. Easy Hiker, largely against her will, to accompany me on a journey through the narrow streets of the city’s old town all the way up to the Castello Svevo.
On the Way to the Castle of Cosenza
It is best to approach the castle of Cosenza from the riverbank in the town centre – just south of the Ponte dei Pignatari – by climbing up one of the uphill stairways.
This way, you will also see some of the old town’s architectural highlights such as the 13th century cathedral …
… and the scenic Piazza XV Marzo with the Teatro Rendano, one of Calabria’s most celebrated venues for plays and operas.
On the left side of the square, you can enter a lush tropical garden. Rest a little and catch your breath before tackling the rest of the climb.
Because it is here where the real old town of Cosenza begins.
If you have already visited other historic town centres elsewhere in Italy, you will quickly spot the differences. Cosenza’s Centro Storico may have some pretty spots as well …
… but its predominant overall colour is a worn-out grey (which replaces the ochres and terracottas that you can find further north) …
… and much of the urban fabric looks as if it were crumbling away.
You will also find some elements that may look familiar from your previous visits of Italian cities, but they are arranged in different patterns to create a different overall effect.
Overall, there seems to be less of central Italy’s joie de vivre here and more of a sense that life can be a hard struggle. You want to buy a pound of local potatoes? Just knock on the window under the sign.
Still, there are clear signs that the inhabitants have a pride of place and wish to turn their quarter into a pretty place …
… amid occasional reminders that, no matter how hard life may be today, it was certainly much harder in the past.
At no time harder than in the aftermath of the earthquake in 1184, as this street painting reminds us …
… when the entire old town lay in ruins.
Then as now, however, the inhabitants of Cosenza showed spirit and heart by demonstrating their determination to survive in tough circumstances.
They rebuilt their town from the rubble within a mere few decades, and in 1222, the new cathedral (the one you saw earlier) had been completed and was ready to be consecrated. (Bearing in mind the technologies they had at their disposal, the 13th century Cosentians certainly had a more respectable record of reconstruction than modern Italy.)
After 30 to 60 minutes, depending on your speed and the number of side streets you decide to explore, you will arrive at the Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle, which sits on top of the Old Town’s narrow maze of alleyways.
In the open space of the Corso, you can enjoy a breath of fresh air as well as splendid views over town and country.
Look for the Via del Castello or the Via San Giovanni Battista: both provide you with more opportunities to enjoy the scenery and the landscape which lies at your feet …
… while leading you directly to the castle of Cosenza in under fifteen minutes.
On arrival, Mrs. Easy Hiker was not impressed. “You mean to tell me we walked all the way up for this?” she wanted to know – and I had to admit that the structure may have served its purpose as a nearly impregnable fortress in the high Middle Ages but has little to offer the modern visitor in terms of charm or beauty.
This, however, I explained, is not the point. The castle in itself is actually irrelevant: it is the MacGuffin of the hike, the equivalent of a “secret formula” in a spy movie, inasmuch as it gets you going, but its only purpose is to open the gate to the new experiences you will make along the way.
Did I convince her? I am afraid not. Next time when I feel some irresistible force pulling me up towards a hilltop castle, I will have to think of a different story.
Thank you for being such a loyal reader. And yes, as long as we are healthy, we will do walks and hikes to share with our readers.
You both are amazing. Very lucky to have good health to travel and hike the these hard(not Easy) places. Seeing is the learning is so true. Your walks show every bit of those words.
I followed your postings (with Rick Steves) visited/hiked 12 times in past. All of were based on Nice France. Most of them became my fondest memories. Now in my 80 with various old age related physical problems and not able to do so. I am glad I did while I could. Enjoy your journey and keep moving. I will keep reading your stories. Stay well and enjoy your life.