A river always comes in handy for a human settlement – that’s why so many towns across the world have one. Still, it’s rare to find a place that has found as many purposes for its natural waterway as the Provençal town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
First of all came the discovery that the river Sorgue was a rich source of fish. When exactly this discovery was made is difficult to say (probably at the dawn of time), but the (still active) Pescaire L’llien fishermen’s association is first mentioned in official documents dating from the 12th century.
It was also at around this time when the islois first felt the need for protection against hostile intruders and when they rerouted the river Sorgue to form a moat around their settlement.
Later on, the same river was used to supply a range of artisan industries with energy, providing the necessary power to manufacture – among other things – paper, wool, and textiles.
And while the medieval fortifications have nearly all been taken down in the last 200 years – only the stump of one rampart tower survives as a viewing platform near the weir –, …
… the giant milling wheels of the early modern industries can still be seen everywhere alongside the river.
Commerce is another traditional pillar of the local economy. Two annual fairs and two weekly markets have been held in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue for centuries, and the Sunday market by the river dates back to the year 1596.
Today, the river continues to serve L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue as the engine of its booming tourism industry – whose business is the manufacturing of scenic views rather than of paper and textiles. You certainly do not have to look long and hard to find a motive for your Instagram account.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is quite clearly a special little town. What may be less obvious is that the Sorgue is a special little river, too.
E pluribus unum: this is the fundamental law of waterway evolution. Rivers start as a trickle and then gradually gain mass as well as momentum when they merge with other tributaries, resulting in fewer but bigger rivers.
Almost alone in Europe, the Sorgue defies this law and turns its logic on its head: “Ex uno plures”. The source of this rebellious but modestly sized river – it only reaches a length of 30 km before flowing into the Rhone – is the largest in France and one of the five largest in the world. 630 million cubic meters of water per year burst through an opening in the rocks of the “Vau Cluse” (the “closed valley” which has given its name to the entire département), producing murmurs and roars that already soothed the soul of the Italian poet Petrarca 700 years ago. (Apparently, Petrarca who spent 15 years of his life in Provence, often walked to the valley just to listen to its sounds.)
The water from this mighty source then separates into multiple arms which embrace the Isle …
… but also cut right through it between the town’s narrow streets.
Each of these arms has been given a name of its own …
… which creates a variety that is more confusing than enlightening …
… but which is, above all, delightful.
This is why we suggest to skip the seemingly obvious way of exploring the town by tracing the circular route of the ancient moat (this gets a bit monotonous as soon as you move away from the busy southeastern section near the Quai Jean Jaurès) in favour of a voyage of discovery through the historic town centre.
Call it river spotting, if you like – and if it does not make you feel too nerdish, feel free to award the members of your walking party two points for spotting a new label and one point for every name that has already been seen before. (One of the surest ways to happiness in life is always to ask yourself: what would your twelve-year-old self do?)
On the way through town, you can discover many things. Twice a week, there is another market – one with a firmer focus on agricultural produce than the one near the river – in the shadow of the Collegiate Church (on Sundays and Thursdays) …
… and many places of character and history vie for your attention all year around.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue richly deserves its status as one of the incontournables of Provence, a must-see destination for visitors of the region.
On top of that, it is as easy to reach from the area’s other tourist hot spots (trains from Avignon take 40 minutes and buses from Aix-en-Provence a little over an hour) as it is easy on the eye.
Go and give the moats and motives of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue a look. You will certainly find them charming.
