I do not think that too many people will argue with me if I say that Marseille is not the most charming town in Latin Europe. Nor is it the most “easy-on-the-eye”.
One reason for the city’s relative unpopularity is that it rarely manages to convey a sense of place. Marseille has neither the leafy calm of neighbouring towns such as Aix or Avignon nor the sea-front joie de vivre of the French Riviera.
Instead, its blend of architectural bombast and dilapidated housing stock makes you wonder if you might have slipped through a crack in the time-and-space continuum and been inadvertently transported from Southern France to Bucharest.
During our most recent visit, however, we stumbled upon a 2-hour walk where Marseille puts a smile on its otherwise rather grumpy face.
I always suspected that the city would have its pretty corners – and that you only must know where to find them. Today’s walk is definitely a good place to start looking.
It has all the elements from the holy trinity of Mediterranean walks: subtropical fauna, …
… magnificent sea views …
… and charming village scenery.
Ironically, it is also closely connected with the most bombastic specimen of Marseille’s statement architecture: the Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde, …
… possibly the world’s most famous pilgrimage church that has never been associated with either the grave of a saint, a miracle or a vision. Nevertheless, around a million and a half visitors make the way up the 162 metre high La Garde rock every year.
It is safe to guess, however, that most of them do so less for any religious reason and more so …
The Notre Dame de la Garde – Where Marseille Wears a Smile
… to enjoy the splendid views all over the town and its harbour.
These views have ensured that Notre Dame de la Garde has, ever since it was built in 1853, been Marseille’s most famous and most visited landmark.
If you want to experience these views, you don’t even have to exhaust yourself by walking all the way up from the town centre – bus no. 60 will take you right to the foot of the Basilica (conveniently passing by the Vieux Port.)
Walk around the church a little and pay a visit to the magnificently decorated interiors (unfortunately, nothing has survived from the various chapels that stood here since the Middle Ages), before making your way to the southern side of the Basilica.
Look for a modest, waist-high gate and, behind it, the Chemin du Sacré Bois. This is where our walk will begin.
You will immediately be surrounded by the hardy fauna that is so typical for the arid landscapes in this part of the world. But occasionally, in between the densely planted cacti and palms, a view opens up towards the coast, and you can also get a glimpse of the other, more lush face of the Mediterranean.
More of that later, but first, having arrived at the bottom of the hill, you must turn right into the Rue du Bois Sacré towards the Boulevard Amédée Autran and the Boulevard Bompard.
It does not matter very much which of the individual backstreets and alleyways you choose: this quarter on the slopes of the La Garde is full of village-like, scenic streets with charming little twists and turns.
Just make sure that you proceed in a western direction to ensure that you hit the coast roughly at the level of the Parc Walmer. With its lush vegetation and colourful flower beds, …
… this well-tendered public garden – laid out around the former mansion of a wealthy industrialist’s mansion – provides a nice contrast to the arid fauna we saw earlier and a fitting conclusion for our walk.
If you still have energy, however, you can extend the walk for a trip to the picturesque Anse de Maldorme that you can already glimpse from the trail…
… or a little further to the Port de Malmousque marina, which is located on the far side of the same peninsula.
If, however, you feel you have done enough walking for the day, you can take a bus (line 83) from the busy coastal highway underneath the Parc Walmer straight back to the Vieux Port. (One-way tickets can be purchased directly from the driver.)
Following which, you can then take a metro from the Vieux Port to the station Joliette for a look at a “Provencal village” of a different kind.
A few years ago, the old docks of Marseille’s busy sea port were converted into a complex of office spaces, shops and restaurants. The four separate buildings of the former warehouse compound are now connected through arcades and courtyards, providing you with plenty of opportunities to spend your holiday money.
But it is equally entertaining just to take a leisurely stroll because there is so much to see.
Whatever you decide to do: this is a great way of wrapping up this half-day walk in Marseille.
