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This is the time for New Year resolutions, and here is ours: to dedicate more time to provincial France, the vast spaces between capital and coastal areas (vast by European standards, that is: France has a smaller surface area than the US state of Texas).

" finding the two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand"

Where the US have their flyover states, France has its “rush-through départements“: seemingly endless expanses of fields, hills and villages with steepled churches and exotic names that you have never heard before and do not expect to ever hear again: Saint-Rambert-d‘Albon, Bizeneuille, Dompierre-sur-Bebres.

Gallia est omnis divisa in partes tres, France is divided into three parts: this has not changed in the 2000 years since Julius Caesar wrote his History of the Gallic Wars.

The ethnic frontiers of antiquity, however (Aquitani, Belgae, Celtae), have been replaced by cultural ones, which separate the cool (Paris) from the pleasant (the coast) and the dull (everything else).

This is, of course, a predominantly Parisian view, but it is one that everyone in France – sometimes reluctantly – has come to adopt and share.

But we – as foreigners – are not similarly obliged. We are free to see provincial France with unbiased eyes: as a world with its own rules and rhythms – and the charms of a place where the urban …

"in search of the Two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand"

… meets the bucolic – sometimes gently and imperceptibly, sometimes with a splash.

A Walk through the Two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand

"in one of the Two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand"

For this year’s first foray of ours into this world, we picked the central region of the Auvergne and its capital Clermont-Ferrand. This turned out to be a good choice.

Clermont-Ferrand is surrounded by gently rolling hills and has a rich history as well as a busy, lively and youthful city centre, thanks at least partly to its large student contingent. (If you want to find an interesting town, it is always a good idea to look out for a big university.)

There are many things to see in Clermont-Ferrand: a cathedral built entirely from volcanic stone …

"cathedral made of volcanic stone in clermont-ferrand"

 … architectural reminders of the city’s medieval past …

"visiting the Two Gardens of Clermont Ferrand"

… and traces of its most illustrious sons.

These include the mathematician Blaise Pascal (who is nowadays mostly famous for “Pascal’s wager”, his explanation why he thought it was wise to believe in God: if you believe and He does not exist, Pascal reasoned, no harm has been done, but if you do not believe and it turns you were wrong, you may be in serious trouble), …

"Blaise Pascal"

… the Gallic chieftain Vercingetorix (who won a famous battle against the Romans in near-by Gergovia) …

"Vercingetorix in Clermont Ferrand"

… and, last but most importantly, …

"Michelin Man in Clermont Ferrand"

… the Michelin Man.

No brass-plated cobblestones have been laid down in his honour, and there is no statue of him in the town centre. But you cannot go far in Clermont-Ferrand without being reminded of the fact that this is the home town of the world’s most famous tyre manufacturer.

The local sports stadium, for example, bears the company’s name, and an entire theme park on the city’s western outskirts has been dedicated to the Aventure Michelin. (Another “adventure for beginners”, I would surmise, albeit one of a different type.)

For easy-hiking purposes, meanwhile, Clermont-Ferrand is a tale of two gardens, both of them featuring prominently on The Local’s list of “15 Reasons Why Clermont-Ferrand is the Best Place in France“. (The Local provides linguistically challenged ex-pats in nine countries – including France – with national news in English.)

The Jardin Lecoq in the south of the city centre is the playful and lighthearted half of this couple: carefully mise en scene like a 19th century operetta, it features many stage effects …

"Jardin Lecoq one of the Two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand"

… to surprise and delight the flaneurs.

"statue in one of the Two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand"

By contrast, the Parc Montjuzet is far less domesticated and, in parts, nearly wild.

You have to leave the city centre to get there (either on foot or by taking a bus ride on line no. 4 or no. 9 to Sully in the direction of Tremonteix-Charcot), but the excursion is well worth it because you can easily spend an hour or two exploring the various foot paths …

… and, in the end, climbing the Montjuzet hill itself.

"visit of one of the Two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand"

From the peak of this one of the two gardens of Clermont-Ferrand, you get magnificent views over the town and the surrounding countryside.

This must also be a great experience in summer, but on a clear and icily sunny winter day, the virtually monochrome view of the city – buildings in various shades of grey under a metallic white light – had something quite magical about it.

Why “rush through” when there is so much to see and to enjoy in the two gardens of Clermont-Ferrand?

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