It actually pains me to write it down, being a “local patriot” who considers the Italian Riviera west of Genoa as his playground and friendly neighbour. But here it goes: in the highlight reel of the Italian Riviera, the East End has all the good bits.
A trip to the east of Genoa feels very much like a theme park ride (Disneyworld’s take on coastal Italy), with ocker-and-terracotta-coloured sceneries tumbling down rocky cliffs behind every twist of the road, every village that you pass looking as though it had been designed by the local tourism board and painted on a piece of canvas, in a monumental variety of the trompe l’oeil style that is so beloved across Italy.
In the enticing east end of the Italian Riviera, there is Portofino, Portovenere, Vernazza with the rest of the Cinque Terre villages – and there is Camogli, famous for its seafront phalanx of colourful high-rise buildings.
Camogli in itself is well worth a detour on the Grand Tour of Italy from Venice or Milan to Florence and Rome, but can also serve as an excellent starting point for hiking trips along the Ligurian coast.
It is located on the north-western corner of the Portofino peninsula, and the seaside village of Portofino itself can be reached on foot in approximately 5 hours.
The drawback is that the return journey by public transport – buses to Santa Margherita and then to Rapallo followed by a train journey to Camogli – can take you almost as long if you travel outside of the high season.
But whatever you are planning to do: Any major exploration of the Portofino Regional Nature Reserve (which covers the entire southern half of the peninsula) requires a full day on your travel schedule and therefore an early start. You cannot do it on the day of your arrival unless you are coming from a near-by place such as Genoa.
Discover the Enticing East End of the Italian Riviera
Not least because you will want to have a good look at Camogli first. It is a lovely place, even by the high standards of the Eastern Riviera…
… with much to see …
… and much to discover.
Once you have walked around a little and taken your lunch – we suggest fried Mediterranean veggies or anchovies at Semmu Friti on Via Schiaffino near the town centre – it will be too late to start a longer walk.
So for a brief introduction to the local landscape – the Portofino Regional Nature Reserve for beginners, if you like – we suggest an excursion to the church of San Rocco, a couple of kilometres outside (and above) Camogli’s Old Town.
Start the walk opposite the train station, down on the lower level (Via Nicolo Cuneo) and turn left until you reach the river, then follow this river briefly before continuing straight when the river makes a left turn.
From here, it is pretty much all the way up. It is nearly impossible to go astray: for one, because the trail is exhaustively signposted.
Most of the time, the markings – two red balls and a circle – quietly go about their job, but occasionally, they are making eyes at you.
Getting lost is also highly difficult because the trail is “boxed in” by walls and fences, not unlike a Formula 1 race track …
… which is also where the similarities between the two end.
The trail to San Rocco was certainly not built for speed. The website of the local tourism authority estimates that the walk will take you 30 minutes (one way), while the road sign says 40 minutes, and this is already 5 minutes into the trail.
This time difference of roughly 50 per cent can, in my opinion, be best explained by the theory that they must have test-walked the trail by two different parties, one comprising a party of easy hikers and the other consisting of a herd of gazelles.
But no matter what physical shape you are in: you will be relieved to arrive in the small village that surrounds San Rocco church.
You are now allowed to catch your breath for a moment. But then you have to decide what you want to do next.
In theory, you may continue from here: if not all the way to Portofino (the brief ascent to San Rocco is the first stage of the Regional Park’s highlight trail), then perhaps to the San Fruttuoso Abbey which marks the half-way point of that journey.
Be aware, however, that the only way to return from there (other than walking all the way back) is by ferry, and boats only circulate in the summer months (April to October).
As an easy hiking alternative, you can take the coastal path which leads in the direction of the Punta Chiappa promontory.
First, you will arrive at Mortola, an isolated little hamlet only 10 minutes away from San Rocco. Mortola does not appear to be served by any proper roads, only by asphalted foot paths which are just wide enough for motor bikes and which can therefore be supplied exclusively by three-wheeled donkey scooters.
Please note: not all isolation is splendid.
From here, Punta Chiappa is another 30 minutes away. The route leads all the way down, which means of course that on your return, you will have to walk the same trail all the way up again. You should also take into account that Punta Chiappa at sea level cannot possibly look as beautiful as it does from up there.
All in all, it may be better to return to Camogli and save your energy for tomorrow. After all, we have more easy hikes in the area in store for you.
