A little over a year ago, we deconstructed the French Riviera’s mainline railway route and gave you a station-by-station guide to tell you a little bit about the towns and the landscapes that lie on the far side of the stations’ concourses.
Today, we are going to do the same for Italy:
The Italian Riviera seen from the train
Well, not exactly the same, because the two routes are different in so many ways.
For one, the railway line on the French side of the Riviera coast is much shorter – it takes a little over an hour to travel from Menton to Cannes and nearly twice as long for the trip from Ventimiglia to Genoa – and much prettier, too.
The French route provides the visitor with a quick succession of breath-taking views over the Mediterranean and its coastline.
The Italian Riviera seen from the frain, on the other hand, will have the traveller – at least for the first half hour of his journey from west to east – get to see little more than the inside of tunnels and ugly new stations on the far side of the coastal towns.
On top of that, while the views get better the closer you travel to Genoa, one technical problem remains for a list such as this: there are far more stations along the Italian route than on its French equivalent, far too many to name and to include them all.
So instead of rating each of the 20-or-so stations, we will provide you with a list of recommendations: places where you can interrupt your train journey for a short rewarding town walk, a longer hike in the back country or even a day-long stopover.
For the Italian Riviera seen from the train, we have divided our recommendations into three categories and start with:
The Supporting Acts
Noli
Noli is the number one on our list of places where you can stop for a brief hike in the countryside. The city administration has issued a brochure with several short hiking trails, and maps with the trails are displayed all over town.
Go here to find out more about Noli, but be aware that the actual station on the railway line – called Spotorno-Noli – is approx. 2 km away from the coastal town of Noli. There are, however, regular buses.
Imperia
If you are more interested in a town walk, specifically in a combination of historical buildings and spectacular coastal views …
… then Imperia may be the best stop for you.
Concentrate on the Old Town of Porto Maurizio, a short walk away from the (new) train station. Just walk down the Impero river and turn right for a coastal walk of about 15 minutes to the Parasio Hill.
Bordighera
But for a place with historical interest and great hiking opportunities, you do not need to go further than to Bordighera, the second station on the Riviera railway line behind Ventimiglia.
Experience the Beodo , the world’s northernmost natural palm grove (FYI: Bordighera shares a latitude with Detroit and southern Minnesota), and the neighbouring Sasso, the Riviera’s unique nature paradise.
And in Bordighera’s Old Town, you can search out the traces of the old citrus fruit plantations and their owners’ luscious villas, both of which were frequently painted by Claude Monet on his three-month visit.
Stars of the Italian Riviera
Alassio & Albenga
One entry, two towns, but the sedate historical town of Albenga (whose roots reach back into antiquity) …
… and the more lively and colourful Alassio …
… are not only near neighbours: they are also connected by an interesting hiking trail that follows a stretch of the old Via Iulia Augusta and is lined with many Roman monuments.
There is not much to see or do in Alassio unless you have come here for the beaches (it was once the fanciest resort on the Italian Riviera), but in combination with Albenga’s history and a bit of walking you can easily stretch your stopover into a full day.
Sanremo
Bubbly, brash and beautiful Sanremo is the first “real” Italian town behind the French border, much more rewarding than Ventimiglia. Take the time to enjoy the vibrancy of the noisy town centre around Piazza Colombo as well as the peaceful serenity further up in the Old Town.
And if you feel adventurous, you can walk all the way up to San Romolo, following the route of the abandoned funicular railway. This is, in many ways, the spookiest walk we ever undertook on the Italian Riviera.
Genoa
Genoa is not only the undisputed Queen of the Riviera, but also one of the most underrated city destinations in Europe. Dark, profound, and forever elusive, it leaves Barcelona standing in her wake.
There are may things to see in Genoa’s eastern quarters, not least some spectacular architecture down Via XX Settembre.
Most day-trippers leave the train at Piazza Principe station, the first of Genoa’s two downtown stops if you are coming from France.
Here is a tip: continue your ride to the station of Genoa Brignole and approach the historic town centre from the eastern side.
The Italian Riviera’s Surprise Packages
Are you ready to be surprised, to find real beauty behind cookie-cutter station concourses and their adjoining high streets? Good, because here we go.
Savona
From the train, Savona looks relentlessly ugly, and for the first 10 or 15 minutes of your walk to the town centre, Savona does little to correct this first impression – but after that, I guarantee, you will be amazed.
There is more history, pomp and splendour here than anywhere else along the Italian Riviera with the exception of Genoa. Savona was the hometown of Julius II, the most famous of all Renaissance Popes: Rex Harrison opposite Charlton Heston’s Michelangelo in The Agony and the Ecstasy), and while there are undeniably some ugly bits (those monstrosities that you can spot from the train station are not mere hallucinations), there are also plenty of places of calm and serene beauty.
Finale Ligure
From the train, Finale Ligure does not stand out from the parade of nondescript holiday resorts that is passing by on the other side of your train window.
Finale Ligure, however, deserves – and rewards – a closer look. Walk from the coastal boulevard of Finalmarina to Finalborgo and further up …
… to Castello San Giovanni and beyond: the higher you go, the more interesting the scenery becomes – and at the very end, there is a sting in the tail. Finale Ligure heaps surprise upon surprise!
Laigueglia
From the train, you may not see Laigueglia at all: it is very small, after all, and if you blink at the wrong moment (or are busy preparing your descent at near-by Alassio), you will miss it altogether.
Which would be a pity, because Laigueglia is that rare thing: a place of real beauty …
… which has not sold its soul to the tourism industry. You can still hear the echoes of an older Italy here and watch real fishermen prepare their boats and nets.
Make sure, however, to catch a train that actually calls at Laigueglia: not all services stop here, so if you board the wrong train, you may see Laigueglia from the train as it flies by – a surprise, as advertised, but definitely of the wrong kind!
Here’s the Italian Riviera seen from the train. Tempted to visit soon?
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