Jewels in the Crown of the Prince of Darkness
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Jewels in the Crown of the Prince of Darkness

Genoa, “La Superba”, proudly stands apart from the rest of the country – and, in many ways, does not feel like an Italian city at all. It is neither elegant (like Milan) nor full of joie de vivre (like Naples), and it is certainly not an open-air museum where everything has been neatly arranged for…

Regent’s Canal of London : The Bleak and the Beautiful
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Regent’s Canal of London : The Bleak and the Beautiful

Scenic walks in urban environments come in one of two guises: they take you either through a cartoon version of nature that has been carefully designed for the delight of urbanites or through feral landscapes – abandoned “brownfield sites” such as railway lines, port installations and industrial depots – that have been reclaimed by nature….

Get Surprises from Santa Claus in Bari
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Get Surprises from Santa Claus in Bari

Bari, the largest city on the Adriatic coast, is not a mandatory stop on the Great Italian Tourist Trail. No Renaissance masterpieces are on public display, the town’s history does not feature names that you would recognize from old High School lessons, and you will not see reflections of magnificent medieval architecture in the sparkling…

The Paint and the Pedantry
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The Paint and the Pedantry

For many years, Aix-en-Provence had cornered the market for Picturesque Market Towns In Southern France. Easy-to-reach (just over an hour by train from Marseille) and pretty-to-look-at, it ticks all the important boxes for visitors. If you came from Northern Europe or North America and wanted to see a Typical Town In Provence, old men playing…

Burgundy Borderlands – The Discreet Charms of La France Profonde
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Burgundy Borderlands – The Discreet Charms of La France Profonde

The past is a foreign country, as even people know who have not read “The Go-Between” (or seen the movie). But whereas the opening statement of L.P. Hartley’s novel refers to past habits and customs (“they do things differently there”), one can just as easily apply the phrase to the looks and the structures of…

Fontaine Gardens of Nîmes: Rococo, the Romans and the Charms of Modernity
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Fontaine Gardens of Nîmes: Rococo, the Romans and the Charms of Modernity

Here is a strange thing: some neighbouring cities, although physically very close to each other, have a totally different look and feel. Take Nîmes and Arles, two close neighbours in the south of France. They share, inevitably, some characteristics, but it is the differences that stick out. Arles is the quintessential small town in Provence:…