Strolling Through Monaco From End to End
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Strolling Through Monaco From End to End

Some people find it fashionable to sneer at Monaco. There is nothing categorically wrong about sneering, I enjoy the occasional sneer as much as anybody, but for people who are travelling to see the world, it is the most counterproductive attitude you can imagine. After all, travelling is all about discoveries: about finding new things…

The Shame and Fortune of Vichy, Former Capital of France
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The Shame and Fortune of Vichy, Former Capital of France

When we talk about “storied“ towns and cities, the kind of story that we have in mind involves palace intrigues and poisonous plots, riots and revolutions, blood and fury: Troy, Jerusalem, Rome. Not all municipal histories, however, unfold on such an epic scale. There is a no less interesting category of shorter and sharper morality…

The Two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand
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The Two Gardens of Clermont-Ferrand

This is the time for New Year resolutions, and here is ours: to dedicate more time to provincial France, the vast spaces between capital and coastal areas (vast by European standards, that is: France has a smaller surface area than the US state of Texas). Where the US have their flyover states, France has its…

Ghosts of East London: Famous Ships and a Dead Child
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Ghosts of East London: Famous Ships and a Dead Child

London is the great survivor among the world’s cities: whatever opportunities history has come up with over the centuries, London always seized them with both hands. This explains why its skyline may be called dramatic but never picturesque: no painter would ignore the structural imperatives of a central motive quite like this. London’s tradition has…

Of Nazis and Nuremberg

Of Nazis and Nuremberg

Nuremberg is one of Germany’s most storied cities. The town’s rich history reached its apogee in the Middle Ages when Nuremberg was the unofficial capital of the Empire (the castle on top of the hill was where the Imperial Parliament met) … … when Albrecht Dürer, Northern renaissance painter par excellence, plied his trade just…

Vauban’s Citadel: The Great White Whale of Besançon
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Vauban’s Citadel: The Great White Whale of Besançon

How do you stand with military architecture? I mean: fortresses, fortifications and the way in which they have been constructed through history: how much does this interest you? Not all that much? All right, then that makes two of us already. It is not the naturally most fascinating topic on earth, is it? Personally, however,…