Walks that prominently feature the attractions of a town or city fall into one of two categories. Either they are walks that are great in their own right but perhaps a trifle short (“while you are there, you might as well have a look at the town”).
And there are walks that help you to pass time in a town which is attractive but otherwise too small for a whole day of exploration. Today’s walk falls firmly into the latter category.
The attractive town is Imperia on the Italian Riviera
Imperia is the capital of the province, which may not increase its appeal as a tourist destination but gives you an idea of its local standing.
Although less well known abroad than its neighbours Sanremo and Alassio, it is also one of the most picturesque places on the western coast of the Riviera, full of intimate courtyards …
… and vistas that suddenly open up across the blue sea to break up the claustrophobic clusters of old town buildings.
What it does not have, we might as well be honest about it, is a Unique Selling Point: there is no internationally famous artwork, no visible trace of one of world history’s “superstars” (such as Columbus or Garibaldi), nothing that you could not find in any other coastal town between Nice and Genoa.
However, in Imperia on the Italian Riviera, there are many beautiful old buildings that sweetly echo each others’ shapes and colours, coastal panoramas under blue skies, and sun kissed stairways – altogether certainly enough to pass a pleasant and, on a sunny day, even glorious couple of hours.
Here is something else that Imperia does not have: easy accessibility by public transport. Not any more it doesn’t.
Imperia used to have two train stations, which reflected the fact that the town was created by knocking together two physically close but very different neighbours: the busy, lively and commercial-minded Oneglia and the more handsome, but also more sedate Porto Maurizio (the two have been on opposite sides of nearly every major historical event since the Middle Ages).
Since the new train line has replaced the old, single-track route along the coast, there has been only one station, which is located much closer to the commercial part of town.
As a consequence, you have – if you want to visit the Old Town of Porto Maurizio – only two realistic options: either you take a time-consuming bus ride from Sanremo (one hour) or you walk from Imperia station. (An interurban bus service to connect train station and Porto Maurizio only runs once every hour.)
No matter how much you may want to gloss over it, this walk which starts down the right bank of the Impero river is not the prettiest walk you can do in the area – although, this being Italy, some beautiful motive or the other is never far away.
When you reach the coast after approx. 1 kilometre, turn right (Oneglia, if you want to take a look, lies on the other side of the river), and continue down the Riviera coast for another 30 minutes or so.
Your first impressions of Imperia may have been a little grim, but the scenery improves once you have reached Porto Maurizio’s marina.
Take the coastal footpath that forks off the main road behind the bend …
… and cross the small river at the end.
Turn right into the narrow lane ahead of you and continue across the intersecting road into a foot path called Salita Monte Calvario.
If you are a little familiar with Italy, you will already have an idea by now – just going by the name of the path – what will wait for you along the way: little shrines in front of which pilgrims are meant to say a few prayers …
… and what will wait for you at the end: a convent with a crucifixion scene and a peaceful little garden around it.
The most glorious possible view of Porto Maurizio, at any rate, is there for all of us to enjoy, Catholic or not.
On your way back, turn inland after crossing the bridge and head straight for the Old Town. You can follow the circular route that is recommended by the information panels that are dotted around in the Old Town, but you can also just follow your instincts.
Porto Maurizio is small, and eventually, you will stumble upon all of the sights including the beautiful lodges high above the sea …
… and the Parasio Bastion, an Old Town built on top of the Old Town.
For your way back to Sanremo, if that is the way you are heading, we recommend to take the bus from a stop down by the coastal road.
Buy yourself a category BC ticket at a tobacconist for € 2, which is considerably less than what you would have to pay on the bus. (A zoning system for local overland buses was introduced in early 2019.) Tickets are valid for 100 minutes including changes (we were told), which is generally just about long enough to make it to Ventimiglia (change to the V line at Sanremo bus station).
If you are not in a hurry and unfamiliar with the area, you can also break up your trip there and spend a couple of hours in Sanremo. This way, you can cram visits to two towns into today’s walk rather than a single one.
Remember the motto: While you are there, you might as well take a look.
