Having explored Lake Como and Lake Lugano on the first few days of our trip to northwestern Lombardy, we had a distinct appetite for something completely different.
Which is why, on the last day of our stay, we decided to go Into The Woods …
… not anticipating that, in the end, we would get more Woods than we had bargained for.
But let us take it from the beginning. Our destination for the day was the Torre Baradello, the tower that overlooks Como.
Into the woods for a easy hike to the Baradello Tower
Seen from the lake, the tower may look a long way out of town, but in fact, you will reach the foot of the hill in 15 minutes from Como town centre.
Just walk down Viale Innocenzo XI, the busy four-lane highway that leads out of town, until, on the right hand side of the road, you see the remains of the Ticosa, the last of Como’s large silk factories which was closed in 1982. (The land has been “under development” since).
Turn right just in front of the factory ruins into Via Sant’Abbondio and continue until you reach the old monastery, which was built in the 11th century as a Benedictine abbey.
The even older church it replaced had served for several centuries as the first Cathedral for the Bishops of Como.
Now take a sharp turn to the left into Via Regina Teodolinda and walk past the cemetery before turning right into Via Castel Baradello.
When you see the tower now, it may look very close, but you will still have quite a long way to walk, mainly because the main trail does not let you approach the tower in a straight line, winding slowly up the hill.
This first part of the hike is a little monotonous and bleak – at least that’s how it felt for us in mid-February. Around the lake, in the sunshine, you may very well think that spring has already arrived , but on the Baradello hill, on an overcast day, we felt cruelly reminded that we were, still, stuck in deep winter.
The climb up the Baradello hill may proceed slowly in long serpentines, but, as a quid pro quo, you get pretty views over the town and the surrounding landscape.
And even here, you never can quite get away from Lake Como. (Et in Baradello ego.)
After about one hour, you will arrive at the Baradello Tower, which will be the oldest thing by far you are going to see all week.
The lower walls of this former military fortress are from the 6th or 7th century, although the idea of erecting a watchtower on the Baradello hill precedes the current structure by several centuries.
The first fortifications in this place may have been built in pre-Roman times more than 2000 years ago, nobody seems to know exactly when. The present tower was constructed under the Byzantine Empire and gradually extended over the centuries until it became a much bigger complex than what you see today.
In the 16th century, troops under the command of the German Emperor, on their retreat from Como, decided to raze the fortress to prevent it from falling into the hands of their victorious French enemies. Only the tower and a few adjacent ruins are still standing today.
It is in the back of these ruins, near a structure that once seemed to have served as the castle’s chapel, where you get the trail’s best view of Lake Como.
For our way back to town, we decided that we did not want to use the same trail again. Our map indicated that there was a handy alternative, and indeed, we found the markers for the trail by the side of the tower.
Although our first impressions of the path were not favourable …
… we went ahead anyway.
Perhaps we should have taken heed – first impressions, after all, often contain sharp little truths. (Who was it again who said that?) In this case, the truth went as follows: the trail had not been maintained, perhaps not even used, in a long time.
But then again, to quote another great sage of our age (Little Red Riding Hood in the Stephen Sondheim musical that was named after today’s post): “The way is clear, the light is good, I have no fear, nor no one should. The trees are just wood, the woods are just trees.” We must begin our journey!
Then again, Little Red Riding Hood – I am fairly certain of this – had never hiked an Italian forest trail. We, conversely, have, which is why we know from experience what there is to fear.
At the end of a daring descent, to name just one pertinent example, you may very find a ten-foot-high wall stretching into the depths of the forest. Or a motorway.
Admittedly, neither is quite as bad as a meeting with the Big Bad Wolf, and you will not be eaten alive (unless you try to cross that motorway) but have to walk the entire footpath up again and then do exactly what you wanted to avoid in the first place, which is to return on the other trail. Then again, there is another way of seeing it.
Ultimately, you have to be clear about what you think makes a hike good or even great. For me, the best hikes are those where, at the end, you experience a palpable relief on coming out into a proper asphalted street.
Hikes, in other words, that involve – no, not quite a brush with death (we must not overstate our case) but with some level of misfortune.
Which is why I had no regrets about our choice of descent, although Mrs. Easy Hiker may not share this point of view because it was the sole on one of her favourite pair of boots that broke in two on the way down. (It was all my fault, of course.) In other words: I would do it again, but on reflection choose the steep path for the way up. Contrary to what most people believe, it is much easier that way.
If you intend to follow in our footsteps: here is the spot where the paths diverge, one easy and straight …
… and the one less traveled by. (When you arrive at the junction, you must turn around for the steep path: it’s in your back).
Whatever route you pick: this is where the Baradello adventure really begins. “Into the Woods, to get the thing that makes it worth the journeying” – whatever that may be.
